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CLIMBING IN NEPAL : CHULU EAST PEAK
 
 

Chulu East Peak Climbing : 21 days

Chulu East (6,584m) is situated high above the Manang valley with breathtaking views across to the Annapurna II, III and IV, Gangapurna, Glacier Dome, Dhaulagiri, Tilicho peak and Manaslu. The climb is combined with the classic trek around the Annapurna massif, ascending the Marshyangdi valley and crossing the Thorong La, before descending the Kali Gandaki valley to Pokhara. The climb is technically straightforward and you should be familiar with the use of your equipment, crampons, harness, ice axe, tying knots and handling climbing ropes. Most of the climbing will be involved walking roped together, including the glacial crossings. You should be very fit and have good experience of climbing.

The North-East ridge is considered the normal route to climb this peak from a Base Camp on the moraine at 5334m. Most climbers make it to the top and back from Base Camp in one long day although some have, in the past, established a higher camp some where below the peak. Another subsidiary peak called Chulu Far East (6059m) may also be attempted from this approach.

 

Facts of the climb

Duration: 21 Days
Trek type: Camping
Max Altitude: 6584 m.
Minimum Pax: 1 +
Mode of travel: Land
Grade: Strenuous

Itinerary

Day 01: Drive from Kathmandu to Beshishahar (760m.) and it takes about seven hours and trek to Khundi (790m) which takes about three hours. You drive along the Kathmandu-Pokhara Highway to Dumre and then follow the narrow and paved road by the Marsyangdi River to Besi Sahar (823m.). It takes almost seven hours. Beshishahar is the district headquarters of Lamjung district. All the local government offices are situated here. From here, you can see some of mountain peak, natural sceneries surrounding the valley and the daily activities of local people. This headquarter is the centre from where the daily usable commodities are supplied to the different villages and numerous towns.

Day 02: Trek from Khudi to Bahundanda (1310m) and it takes about four hours.

Day 03: Trek from Bahundanda to Tal (1700 m) which takes about six hours.

Day 04: Trek from Tal to Bagarchap (2160m) and it takes about six hours.

Day 05: Trek from Bagarchap to Chame (2670m) which takes about seven hours.

Day 06: Trek from Chame to Pisang (3300m) and it takes about six hours.

Day 07: Trek from Pisang to Yak Kharka (4210m) which takes about six hours.

Day 08: Trek from Yak Kharka to Chulu East Base Camp (5140m) and it takes about five hours.

Day 09: Rest day at Chulu East Base Camp to explore the surrounding

Day 10: Ascend High Camp of Chulu East (5600m).

Day 11: Rest at High Camp

Day 12: Summit Chulu East and return the Base Camp which takes about seven hours.

Day 13: Trek from Chulu East Base Camp to Manang (3540m) and it takes about five hours.

Day 14: Rest day at Manang and hang in and around town. This is an important rest and acclimatization day before crossing the Thorung La. There are optional day walks such as crossing the river to see the tremendous ice-fall coming down from the Annapurnas, or climbing high above the village for a full panorama of the Annapurna range and the Manang Valley. There is also a Himalayan Rescue Association [HRA] aid post in the village which makes an interesting and educational visit. Moreover you can visit Ganagapurna Glacier lake to make your rest day a memorable one.

Day 15: Trek from Manang to Letdar (4200m) which takes about four hours.

Day 16: Trek from Letdar to Thorung Phedi (4450m) and it takes about six hours.

Day 17: Trek from Thorong Phedi to Muktinath (3800m.) via Thorong La (5416m.) Pass and it takes about seven hours. It demands an early start today for your crossing of Thorung La [5416m]. The trail becomes steep immediately on leaving camp but as this trail has been used by local people for hundreds of years, the path is well defined. The gradient then eases and after around 4 hours of steady climbing, you reach the chorten and prayer flags of the pass. The views are dramatic to say the least, from the snow-covered mountains above, to the head of the Kali Gandaki valley below and the brown and purple hills of Mustang which are spread out before you. The descent to Muktinath is a knee pounding 1600m but it is compensated for with excellent views of Dhaulagiri. Eventually the moraines give way to grassy slopes before a pleasant walk along the Jhong Khola Valley to Muktinath and its shrines and temple. 

Day 18: Trek from Muktinath to Kagbeni (2800 m.) and it takes about three and half hours. You now begin the trek descent down the dramatic Kali Gandaki Gorge, initially through arid country in the same geographical and climatic zone as Tibet. After passing through Jharkot and Khingar villages with typical Tibetan architecture, you follow path steeply down to Kagbeni, a primitive village famous for Tibetan architectures. People living there follow the Tibetan life style and culture. There is situated a monastery said to belong to 15th Century. Kagbeni is the border for Upper Mustang.

Day 19: Trek from Kagbeni to Jomsom (2710m.) which takes about three and half hours. Your trail passes through the bank of Kali Gandaki passing through the Eklebhatti. The trail is windy after late morning. The river flows through broader course. Jomsom is the headquarters of Mustang and it is split into two towns and between these two towns passes through Kali Gandaki river. There is access of internet and banking facilities. From Jomsom, you can enjoy the magnificent views of Nilgiri and Tilicho peak. Here you stay overnight at hotel.

Day 20: Fly from Jomsom to Pokhara which takes about 35 minutes. The flights are available during the morning time. The strong breeze blows during the after and frequent change of the weather prevent the flight being landed and taken off in the afternoon. During the flights in morning, the sky looks very clear which makes you able to enjoy the splendid views of different mountain peaks.

Day 21: Drive from Pokhara to Kathmandu by tourist mini bus that takes about seven hours. While driving from Pokhara to Kathmandu, you head up to Damauli,, Dumre, Muglin and  Kurintar where the Nepal's first Cable car is operated to reach to Manakamana Temple. En route, you could enjoy the mountain views, green sceneries, rice terrace fields, vegetable fields and people being engaged in their daily life activities. From Naubishe you climb up to Thankot, the gateway to capital city. You can also fly from Pokhara to Kathmandu which takes about 25 minutes.

 

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